OUT in AMSTERDAM from: Holland Herald, september 1998, Rodny Bold

Take you pick... Try a new concept in dining at Utrechtsedwarstafel. Set prices vary according to quantity (three-course, four course or five-course) and quality (simple, mid-range or gourmet). There is no menu. You simply mention what you do not like eating, choose your price range, then sit back and wait to be surprised by chef Igor Sens and sommelier Hans Verbeek.

A 'mid-range' starter might involve tender rabbit served with marinated asparagus and vine snails; a 'simple' main course could be rib-eye beef with a pesto sauce. At gourmet level you're talking truffles and foie gras. Sens' dishes are mouthwateringly imaginative, without being pretentious. Verbeek matches each course to a suitable wine, with passion, care and considerable knowledge.